The 4 pins on the top row at the back of the DB9 socket is soldered together with a piece of hard wire. The little wire (blackish one across the 4 pins on top) came loose from its soldering joint. I decided to open up the controller box and look at what I've found: Then I started connecting them part by part while testing continuity after each part was assembled. Using a multimeter set to continuity mode, I probed the DB9 cable, the DB9 breakout board, and the wires connected to the crocodile clips. I kept thinking about what could have happened for the past 2 days and decided to check for connectivity of all the wires leading to the probes.
FLYCUT OR END MILL TO REMOVE MATERIAL MANUAL
So went back to manual zero'ing to complete the facing job to prepare the stock for the z axis mounting adapter for the A2Z leadscrew. Couldn't figure out what happened after checking around for a while. Touching the 2 crocodile clips together (my "probes") didn't lit up the Touch Test LED in the Probe section. It is really a time saver no more jogging in small little steps of 0.01mm to zero by sight of all the 3 axes. I've been using erniebro's touch plate micro (on ) to zero the cutter before starting a job on the mill.
FLYCUT OR END MILL TO REMOVE MATERIAL FULL
Then I'll have full automation (almost) at home :-)Īlmost 1am now. When the precision leadscrew conversion is done, I'll move on to wire the spindle to the Gecko G540 VFD so that I can control the spindle rpm using gcode. And if the A2Z horse shoe Stepper Motor Mount can be used, I'll have one less component to make to complete this mod. I hope to complete the nut mount by the next session, if time permits. This is the same type of deburring tool I used for the final cleaning up. The rest was left for the deburring tool. Once I get the diameter of 23mm, I adjusted the tool angle to clean up what I can of the balance. As the length of the boring tool is less than the required depth of 25mm, I left a few mm at the back of the stock for cleaning up later. Spindle speed was rather slow to reduce vibration as the hole is not in the middle of the rectangular block. The cut wasn't smooth at the beginning but I managed. The entire process of boring out the 23mm diameter hole started with some fear of the stock moving out of the chuck. They're right in the middle of the 2 mounting holes on the antibacklash nut. I marked the 2 screw hole locations again using the digital height gauge.
Deburring tool was used to remove the balance material. I didn't take pics of how I managed to mill out the portion left behind. Can't insert it all the way yet as I couldn't bore all the way through the stock due to the cutting depth of the tool being a little short. This is an inexperience machinist wannabe at work. The boring bar is a little short for the 25mm thick block.Ĭompleted the "boring" operation. Here you can see the layout lines and the circular mark on the surface caused by the shank of the tool rubbing against it. Being Singaporean (Kia Su syndrome), I gave it a 7mm. My boring tool needs a minimum hole size of 1/4" to start. Started with drilling progressively bigger hole after center drilling. With the little time I had, I've to stop right after I completed boring the 23mm hole where the nut slide in to fit.Īs usual, pics were taken along the way. This little block will be fitted onto the Antibacklash Nut from A2Z so that the precision leadscrew can be mounted on the z-axis to complete the conversion. The kit arrives with all necessary materials together with a square 1/4" HSS toolbit.After fixing up the Touch Plate Probe yesterday night (see A little mishap), I completed the squaring of the aluminium block and laid out the required dimensions. The design is very sturdy and the body includes an integral parallel arbor to be gripped with a collet in the miller or lathe. With a light cut and a slow and consistent feed, the finish obtained on steel, iron and non-ferrous materials can look as if it has been surface ground! Provided the head of your miller is square to the table, the resultant surface is both uniform and flat. The cutting diameter can be adjusted to any surface up to 7" wide, allowing a finishing cut to be made in just one pass. A dulled cutter can be brought back to perfection on the bench grinder by sharpening just one face. Unlike expensive endmills, your flycutter will last indefinitely. Whilst this opinion may hold water for industrial scale work, where large volumes of material must be removed at the minimum cost, for finishing cuts in the smaller workshop, flycutting is by far the better bet. Compared with end-milling, flycutting is often cited as the slower and therefore inferior process for milling flat surfaces.
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